For millions of South African women, chemical hair relaxing is a routine part of their hair care regimen, but behind that smooth finish lies a growing hidden risk.
While post-relaxer breakage often seems like temporary surface damage, expert dermatologists warn it can easily mask the early signs of permanent, irreversible hair loss.
With local research revealing that most commercial relaxers carry corrosive pH levels capable of scarring the scalp, recognising the difference between a broken hair shaft and a destroyed follicle has never been more vital.
A study by the University of Cape Town’s Division of Dermatology revealed that 78% of schoolgirls and nearly 50% of adult women surveyed use chemical hair relaxers.
Yet behind the smooth finishes lies a troubling possibility: while post-relaxer breakage can be temporary, it often masks the early warnings of permanent, irreversible hair loss.
According to Dr Kashmal Kalan, from Alvi Armani South Africa, distinguishing between superficial surface damage and underlying follicular destruction is the critical first step.
“Chemical processing is part of my initial analysis: the pattern of breakage, where it's concentrated, and how the scalp responds. Disclosing this information is not something a patient needs to feel awkward or ashamed about.
"It is simply another piece of useful information, amongst others, that informs treatment," notes Kalan.
Hair loss, he stresses, is rarely the result of one factor alone. He draws a firm line between two very different problems: injury to the hair shaft and damage to the follicle beneath.
"A significant number of patients I consult with breakage or thinning still have healthy, viable follicles," explains Kalan.
"That kind of damage usually responds well to the right hair care and treatment. A cause for concern is when the follicle itself has been affected. Once a follicle is replaced by scar tissue, treating the hair shaft alone won't reverse that damage."
The harsh chemical composition of these products compounds the issue. A study published in the "South African Medical Journal" evaluated 121 relaxers sold locally, including those targeted at children, and found all of them were highly alkaline.
"With a median pH of 12.36, these formulas exceed the threshold considered corrosive to human skin.
“This study tells us that relaxers are strong products that should be treated with respect. However, it doesn't outright indicate that relaxers cause conditions like Central Centrifugal Cicatricial Alopecia (CCCA), a form of scarring hair loss that usually begins at the crown, where breakage can be an early sign.
"What we can say is that repeated chemical exposure can damage the hair, and in some cases the scalp. That damage can contribute to hair loss or worsen an existing condition."
He also notes that if someone notices the hair at the crown is getting shorter, thinner, or simply behaving differently from the rest of the scalp, they shouldn't automatically assume it's typical relaxer damage. That’s exactly the kind of pattern that deserves a proper look, and the sooner, the better.
Kalan pays close attention to other areas on the scalp where breakage or thinning is most pronounced.
At the hairline, this may point to traction alopecia, caused by mechanical tension from tightly braided or woven styles.
South African research found traction alopecia in 32.1% of girls who braided relaxed hair, compared with 22.9% who braided natural hair.
"No hairstyle or product should cost you your hair, or cause permanent damage," concludes Kalan.
"Relaxer isn't the enemy here; ignoring what your scalp is telling you is."
alyssia.birjalal@nationalmg.co.za