John Galliano has officially withdrawn from the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s planned 2027 retrospective following renewed scrutiny over his history of antisemitic and racist remarks.
Recognising that an exhibition honouring his work could prove deeply painful to many and cast a shadow over the Costume Institute, the designer chose to step away from what was expected to set the theme for fashion's biggest night.
With "John Galliano: Horizons" officially shelved, the fashion world now turns its focus to who should take his place; from rebellious visionaries like Vivienne Westwood and Thierry Mugler to pop icons who weaponised personal style like Dolly Parton.
In his press statement, Galliano stated: “After much reflection and discussion with all those involved, I have decided, with great sadness, that the exhibition shouldn't take place at this time,” he revealed in a statement that was posted on his Instagram page.
Galliano acknowledged the impact of his past actions and said he did not want the controversy surrounding him to overshadow the work of the Costume Institute or put the museum in a difficult position.
He also expressed “profound and enduring” gratitude to the museum’s leadership, while recognising that an exhibition celebrating his work could be painful for some.
“I do not want the debate surrounding me to place the Met in a difficult position or to distract from the remarkable work of the Costume Institute. I also recognise and respect that an exhibition honouring my work would be painful to some,” he wrote.
With “John Galliano: Horizons” no longer going ahead as planned, the spotlight now turns to the question of who could take his place as the subject of a future Met fashion exhibition.
Whether they redefined high fashion or used personal style to build an empire, here are five legends worthy of fashion's grandest stage:
Vivienne Westwood
If the Met wanted to celebrate a designer who genuinely changed the course of fashion, Vivienne Westwood would be an obvious choice.
Westwood helped take punk from the streets of London and put it firmly on the fashion map. Her early work with Malcolm McLaren became closely associated with the punk movement, challenging traditional ideas of what fashion could and should look like.
But Westwood’s career was about much more than punk. Throughout the decades, she experimented with tailoring, corsetry, historical dress, tartan and exaggerated silhouettes, constantly finding new ways to challenge convention.
Her clothes were often provocative, but there was always a strong sense of craftsmanship behind them. She also used fashion as a platform for activism, speaking openly about environmental issues and politics.
A Westwood exhibition could tell the story of British fashion through one of its most rebellious figures, while showcasing the dramatic clothes, corsets and theatrical designs that made her work so recognisable.
Thierry Mugler
French designer Thierry Mugler became famous for creating clothes that transformed the body, from sharply defined shoulders and tiny waists to exaggerated hips, sculptural corsets and futuristic silhouettes.
His fashion was dramatic, glamorous and sometimes deliberately over the top. But that was precisely the point because Mugler saw the runway as a stage, creating elaborate shows that felt closer to theatre than a traditional fashion presentation.
Mugler’s influence also extended beyond fashion as he became closely linked to music and celebrity culture, dressing some of the biggest names in entertainment and helping shape the visual language of performers.
A retrospective would be an opportunity to revisit some of his most spectacular designs while looking at his vision of glamour and fantasy.
Jean Paul Gaultier
Jean Paul Gaultier has never been particularly interested in playing by fashion’s rules, which is exactly what makes him such a strong contender.
Throughout his career, Gaultier challenged traditional ideas about gender, sexuality and beauty. He famously put men in skirts, turned underwear into outerwear and made the corset a powerful fashion statement rather than simply an item of lingerie.
His designs often took familiar pieces and completely changed the way we looked at them.
He also drew inspiration from subcultures, street style and different periods of history, bringing all of these influences together in his collections.
Gaultier also created some of the most memorable stage costumes of the past few decades, including Madonna’s iconic cone bra, cementing his place in both fashion and music history.
A Met exhibition dedicated to Gaultier could explore everything from gender and sexuality to music, celebrity and the changing definition of beauty.
Hubert de Givenchy
For something a little more timeless, Hubert de Givenchy would offer the Met an opportunity to celebrate one of the great names in haute couture.
Givenchy was known for an elegant, refined approach to fashion that allowed the woman wearing his clothes to remain at the centre of the look. His designs were sophisticated without feeling overly complicated, helping define a particular kind of 20th century glamour.
His most famous partnership was with Audrey Hepburn, with whom he created iconic Hollywood fashion moments, including her legendary 1961 film "Breakfast at Tiffany's" little black dress.
Givenchy also dressed other major figures, including Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, further cementing his influence on celebrity and political fashion.
The exhibition could explore the designer’s contribution to haute couture, his approach to elegance and the lasting relationship between fashion and Hollywood.
Dolly Parton
Dolly Parton may not be a fashion designer, but that could actually make her one of the most exciting choices on this list.
Few entertainers have created an image as instantly recognisable as Parton’s. Big blonde hair, rhinestones, dramatic nails, fitted silhouettes and plenty of sparkle became part of her signature look and she has remained remarkably loyal to it throughout her career.
She is one of the most successful figures in country music, with a career spanning decades as a singer, songwriter, performer and actress.
Parton intentionally built a distinctive image through her clothing, hair, and beauty, making her style central to her character and audience recognition.
A Met exhibition could examine this intersection of music and fashion, showcasing her stage costumes, beauty evolution and branding through personal style.
It would also give the Costume Institute the chance to look at fashion from a slightly different angle, not just through the designers who created the clothes, but through the performers who used fashion to create an identity.
kamogelo.makhura@nationalmg.co.za
