Social media is officially flipping traditional wash day on its head with "dirty conditioning" - a three-step routine that puts conditioner before shampoo.
By applying conditioner to your lengths first, then cleansing your scalp with shampoo, and finishing with a final rinse of conditioner, this viral hack aims to protect delicate strands from being stripped of vital moisture.
For anyone struggling with dry, tangled, or coily hair, it might just be the ultimate wash-day fix.
What is “dirty conditioning”?
Dirty conditioning is a technique that involves conditioning the hair before using a shampoo.
So instead of going straight in with shampoo, you apply conditioner to the lengths and ends of your hair before washing it.
The conditioner is then rinsed out of the hair before shampoo is applied to the scalp, and once the shampoo has been rinsed away, conditioner is used again as the final step.
The idea is to give the hair some added slip and protection before it comes into contact with shampoo, while still getting the cleansing benefits of shampoo.
Why has it become a trend?
Like many beauty trends, dirty conditioning has become popular on social media, with users sharing their wash-day routines and results.
Shampoo is designed to remove oil, sweat, dirt and product build-up from the scalp and hair.
While this is an important part of keeping the scalp clean, some shampoos can leave the lengths of the hair feeling stripped or dry, especially when the hair is already naturally dry.
For people with curls and coils, this can make wash day feel like a battle between getting the scalp clean and keeping the hair soft and manageable.
What are the benefits?
According to Valentine Nkangane, a professional hair stylist, this technique has its benefits, but it is also not for everyone to try just because it is trending.
“Conditioning the hair before shampooing and then conditioning again afterwards can be beneficial, especially for dry, curly, tangled or damaged hair,” she says.
Here are the benefits of the dirty conditioner technique, according to Nkangane:
- Pre-conditioning: The first conditioner can help protect the hair from becoming too dry during shampooing.
- Shampooing: Shampoo cleans the scalp and removes oil, dirt, and product buildup.
- Conditioning again: The second application adds moisture, makes the hair softer, and helps with detangling.
- Less dryness: Using conditioner before shampooing may help reduce the drying effect that shampoo can have on the lengths and ends.
“However, it is not necessary for everyone. If your hair is fine or gets oily easily, conditioning twice may make it feel heavy or greasy.
“The best routine depends on your hair type and how it responds to the products,” Nkangane explains.
If you've got curly or coily hair that loves to tangle up, this can be a total game changer for your hair.
The goal is more about improving manageability and reducing the unpleasant dry feeling that can follow cleansing.
Who should try it?
Dirty conditioning may be most useful for people with dry, coarse, curly or coily hair, particularly if their hair becomes tangled or difficult to comb during washing.
It could also be worth experimenting with if your hair frequently feels rough after shampooing or if you find yourself using a lot of conditioner simply to detangle it.
On the other hand, people with very fine or oily hair may find that conditioning twice leaves their hair feeling heavy or greasy, especially if a rich conditioner is used.
That doesn’t necessarily mean the technique is not for you, it may simply require a lighter conditioner or less product.
Is dirty conditioning actually effective?
The basic idea behind this technique is quite simple because conditioner gives your hair more slip, making it way easier to detangle.
That said, conditioning before you shampoo won't automatically work wonders for everyone's hair health.
Hair responds differently depending on its texture, porosity, condition, styling history and the products being used.
It is also important to know that with haircare products, the focus should be on choosing gentle formulas that support a healthy scalp rather than those containing harsh ingredients, which is what Dr Kashmal Kalan, a hair restoration surgeon at LVI Armani SA, recommends.
“When choosing shampoos and conditioners, it is important to look for products that are gentle and calming rather than harsh on the scalp.
“Ideally, they should be free from sulphates, parabens, harsh chemicals and perfumes, and should be organic or herbal in nature where possible. The focus should be on products that support and maintain a healthy scalp without causing unnecessary irritation,” Kalan explains.
kamogelo.makhura@nationalmg.co.za