It’s easy to look at old family photos and wonder if previous generations held a secret to flawless skin that modern 10-step routines have somehow lost.
But was their skin genuinely better, or are we simply viewing the past through rose-tinted glasses?
According to plastic surgeon Professor Chrysis Sofianos, while older generations benefited from simpler diets and less product overload, true skin health comes down to stripping back the hype and marrying past simplicity with modern science.
“Previous generations certainly did some things well. They generally ate fewer ultra-processed foods, used fewer products on their skin and may have interfered less with the natural skin barrier,” he says.
Did diet make a difference?
Previous generations generally ate fewer ultra-processed foods and less added sugar, raising questions about how much diet contributes to the health and appearance of the skin.
“Diet is certainly part of skin health, although it should not be presented as the answer to every skin problem,” Sofianos says.
He explains that diets high in refined carbohydrates and added sugars can promote inflammatory and hormonal changes and may aggravate acne in susceptible individuals.
However, Sofianos says there is no need to turn healthy eating into another complicated wellness trend.
“You do not need a special ‘skin diet’ because a diet that is good for your body is generally good for your skin,” he says.
Have we made skincare too complicated?
Today, consumers have access to supplements, collagen powders, serums and highly targeted skincare products.
While modern skincare has brought significant advances, Sofianos says that does not mean a complicated routine is necessary.
“Modern sunscreen, retinoids, moisturisers and targeted treatments for acne and pigmentation have transformed what we can do for the skin,” he says.
He acknowledges that there is emerging evidence for some oral collagen supplements, although the effects tend to be relatively modest and the quality and formulation of the product matter.
“A serum can be useful if it contains an effective ingredient at an appropriate concentration and is being used for a specific reason,” he explains.
He further adds that the number of products in a routine does not determine its effectiveness.
“Your skin does not know how much you paid for the bottle. It responds to the ingredients, the formulation and how consistently you use them,” Sofianos says.
Are natural remedies really safer?
Traditional cultures have long used natural oils, herbs and homemade mixtures on the skin, and some traditional ingredients have since gained scientific support.
Sofianos points to oat-based preparations as an example, saying they “can be very useful for soothing dry, irritated and eczema-prone skin”.
But he warns against assuming that natural automatically means safe.
“Plants contain biologically active substances. Essential oils, herbs and homemade mixtures can cause irritation, allergic contact dermatitis and in some cases, reactions when the skin is exposed to sunlight,” he adds.
Some old-school habits came with risks
Previous generations also approached sun exposure very differently, with tanning once viewed as a sign of health and little or no sunscreen use.
“Excessive sun exposure is probably the most important example,” says Sofianos.
Sofianos also warns that some popular homemade remedies can cause harm to your skin.
“Lemon or other citrus juices can irritate the skin and, when combined with sunlight, it can cause quite significant inflammation and pigmentation,” he says.
He adds that baking soda can disrupt the skin’s naturally acidic barrier, while aggressive scrubbing can cause repeated irritation.
Does modern lifestyle affect our skin?
Hydration, sleep and stress are also important considerations when comparing modern lifestyles with those of previous generations.
Sofianos adds that adequate hydration is important for general health, but warns against the idea that drinking excessive amounts of water will transform the skin.
“Once a person is adequately hydrated, drinking litres of additional water is not going to remove wrinkles or replace a good moisturiser,” he says.
The same applies to stress because, according to Sofianos, chronic stress can influence inflammatory and hormonal pathways and may worsen conditions such as acne, eczema and psoriasis in susceptible individuals.
Does newer automatically mean better?
With skincare increasingly marketed through sophisticated scientific language, consumers can easily assume that the latest innovation must also be the most effective.
Sofianos says there is an important distinction between something sounding scientific and being supported by good evidence.
“An ingredient can have an impressive name, a sophisticated delivery system and very convincing marketing without necessarily producing a meaningful clinical improvement,” he says.
He points out that some of the most effective skincare interventions are neither new nor glamorous.
“Sunscreen, moisturisers and retinoids have been around for a long time,” he says.
How much skincare do we really need?
When it comes to the essentials, Sofianos says most people need fewer products than the beauty industry may suggest.
“The foundation is straightforward: protect the skin from excessive UV exposure, maintain a healthy skin barrier, avoid smoking, eat a balanced diet, exercise, sleep adequately and address specific skin conditions appropriately,” he says.
From a skincare perspective, he recommends a gentle cleanser, an appropriate moisturiser and broad-spectrum sunscreen as a foundation for many people.
Evidence-based active ingredients can then be introduced when there is a specific reason to use them, such as acne, pigmentation or photoageing.
“The important thing is that every product should have a purpose,” says Sofianos.
While previous generations may have benefited from simpler routines, the lesson is not necessarily that older skincare practices were better.
The most useful approach he suggests is to combine “the simplicity of previous generations” with the scientific knowledge available today.
kamogelo.makhura@nationalmg.co.za