Breaking the barrel: How women distillers are rewriting spirits history

As a master distiller, Cape Town’s Danielle Schoeman embodies the next generation driving this flavour disruption.
As a master distiller, Cape Town’s Danielle Schoeman embodies the next generation driving this flavour disruption. Picture: Instagram

For decades, premium spirits were defined by a hyper-masculine ideal: dark leather chairs, heavy crystal, and a focus on heavy smoke and wood.

Today, that image is rapidly giving way to a global flavour renaissance led by a new generation of female master blenders and distillers.

Combining analytical science with sensory precision, these experts are looking past outdated gender marketing to elevate spirits through chemical nuance, cask experimentation, and delicate ester extraction.

From traditional Scotch warehouses to South Africa's high-tech craft distilleries, women are asserting themselves not just as consumers, but as the primary architects, scientists, and custodians shaping the future of spirits.

Julieann Fernandez-Thomson, Master Blender at CVH Spirits, recently hosted a tasting that perfectly illustrated this category shift, one where the conversation bypassed outdated gender marketing to focus entirely on sensory innovation.

 Julieann Fernandez-Thomson, Master Blender at CVH Spirits.
Julieann Fernandez-Thomson, Master Blender at CVH Spirits. Picture: Instagram

Fernandez-Thomson didn't take the typical route into the whisky world; she actually started in forensic science. She later pivoted to analytical chemistry and liquid development before taking over the blending reins at CVH Spirits in 2017.

That heavy science background is basically her superpower. While most people look at a warehouse full of barrels and see tradition, she sees a room full of complex chemical reactors.

It’s a geek-meets-craft approach that has completely elevated the flavour profiles of iconic Scotch brands like Bunnahabhain, Tobermory and Deanston.

Instead of just relying on heavy smoke or strong wood flavours, Fernandez-Thomson works like a chef, carefully pulling out delicate, layered tastes. She treats the way the whisky ages inside a barrel like a balanced science-math problem.

Her goal is to perfectly mix the natural, salty sea-air taste of Bunnahabhain with the rich, deep sweetness of rare barrels that used to hold sherry wine.

While she is careful about saying women have a universal "female palate", science shows that having more women in the tasting room brings a real biological edge.

Studies consistently find that women often have way more actual taste buds on their tongues and about 50% more scent-processing cells in their brains than men. In a whisky warehouse, this isn't just a fun fact; it’s a massive professional advantage.

It means women can often spot tiny, hidden flaws in a batch, isolate complex aromas that others might miss, and layer together subtle flavour notes to build a much more balanced, interesting drink.

Helen Cumming, ran a secret, illegal distillery on her farm in the early 1800s.
Helen Cumming, ran a secret, illegal distillery on her farm in the early 1800s. Picture: Instagram

“I think women bring a fresh perspective and, perhaps most importantly, the confidence to question some of the assumptions that have traditionally surrounded whisky. Having more women at the tasting table means more diverse perspectives are being heard, challenged, and valued.”

The real story here is not that women have suddenly discovered the joys of aqua vitae. It is that the industry is finally recognising them not just as a target consumer demographic, but as the primary scientists, custodians, and flavour architects of the category.

The idea that whisky is a rugged, manly drink is actually just a modern trick created by advertisers.

Back in the day, making whisky in Scotland was a normal household chore usually done by women. They used their everyday knowledge of baking, brewing beer, and using garden herbs to run small, homemade stills in their kitchens and barns.

Everything changed in the 1820s when the British government passed new tax laws. These laws turned whisky-making into big business, shifting production into massive, male-dominated factories. Almost overnight, women were pushed out of the picture and left out of the history books.

Even so, trailblazing women have always managed to shake up the industry from the sidelines, and their real-life stories read like a movie script.

Take Helen Cumming, who ran a secret, illegal distillery on her farm in the early 1800s. Whenever tax collectors came snooping around, she would welcome them in, feed them dinner, and then sneak out the back to raise a red flag.

That flag warned every other neighbour in the valley to hide their setups. Her homemade spirit was so good that she successfully sold it right out of her kitchen window, laying the groundwork for what is now the famous Cardhu Distillery.

Explore the palette of whiskey: rich caramel, warming spice, delicate fruit and smoky oak in every sip.
Explore the palette of whiskey: rich caramel, warming spice, delicate fruit and smoky oak in every sip.Picture: Pexels/Doug Brown

Fast forward to the mid-1900s, and you have Bessie Williamson. She started out taking a temporary summer office job at Laphroaig Distillery and ended up running the entire company.

As the first woman to manage a Scotch distillery in the 20th century, she was a global visionary. She foresaw the massive American demand for single malt whisky long before anyone else and aggressively expanded Laphroaig's smoky spirit into a global icon.

The South African liquid revolution

This rebellion against the flavour status quo is not confined to the mist-shrouded warehouses of Scotland. Thousands of miles south, South African women are executing a parallel liquid revolution, navigating a local industry that has historically been just as heavily coded as a "man's world."

Because the South African spirits scene is younger and less tethered to centuries of rigid European dogma, its female distillers are using that freedom to be uncompromisingly experimental.

Marlene Bester stands as one of the country's most significant liquid pioneers. When she became the Master Distiller at Van Ryn’s in 2009, she took on the painstaking art of blending aged brandies for consistency, balance, and complexity.

Bester didn’t just maintain the status quo; her hyper-precise palate secured Van Ryn’s a legendary streak of "World’s Best Brandy" titles on the global stage.

Marlene Bester stands as one of the country's most significant liquid pioneers.
Marlene Bester stands as one of the country's most significant liquid pioneers. Picture: Instagram

Her journey highlights the social assumptions women have had to dismantle. Bester famously recalled being mistaken for "the marketing girl" rather than the mastermind running the entire distillery infrastructure.

By letting the liquid speak for itself, she shattered that glass ceiling, proving that world-class blending requires a master technician, not a corporate stereotype.

Today, Cape Town’s Danielle Schoeman represents the next generation of this flavour disruption. Establishing Doña Distillery in 2019, Schoeman has built an entire business model around cutting-edge technological experimentation. Her weapon of choice? Custom-built vacuum distillation.

Traditional distillation relies on intense heat, which can "cook" and degrade delicate ingredients. By lowering the atmospheric pressure inside her stills, Schoeman drops the boiling point of the alcohol.

This allows her to extract incredibly volatile, fragile botanical oils without damaging them. The result is a radically elevated sensory profile, beautifully showcased in her award-winning, zero-proof spirit, Mahala Botanical. Schoeman isn't just entering established spirit categories; she is actively inventing entirely new ones.

Ultimately, the impact of these master blenders is less about a battle of the sexes and more about what happens when the spirits industry stops deciding in advance who is allowed to dictate flavour.

By stripping away the gatekeeping, the liquid itself wins.

​vuyile.madwantsi@nationalmg.co.za